The Greater Salt Lake

Aka: The Dead Sea. We bussed an hour and a half outside of Jerusalem to the Dead Sea which is surrounded by the cliffs of Israel and Jordan. We hiked in the rocky beige cliffs and gazed upon the endless desert. Despite the chill in the air, I made it into the blue water and it was WILD. I floated effortlessly and my body burned from the salt. The dead sea is the saltiest body of water on earth, not to mention the lowest point. The rocks along the shore had a hard crystal build up of salt and nothing can survive there. It is 30% salt where as the ocean is a mere 3. My skin was smooth and soft from the water and my eyes burnt from the air around the surface. The sensation of weightlessness was unlike anything I've experienced, I couldn't have drown if I tried. It was a nice afternoon.
The last couple of days, I have spent exploring Jerusalem and learning more about Judaism and what it means to be Jewish in Israel. My friend Lyndsey and I went to Haifa, the second largest city in Israel, for "the holiday of holidays" where Christmas, Hanukkah, and Ramadan is celebrated. We went with "seeds of peace" a really great organization that brings Israeli, Palestinian, Jordanian, Egyptian, and American kids together for peace and conflict resolution. It was incredible to see the kids reunite for the first time since they were in the program together. The Israelis and Palestinians are often kept apart by boarder patrol and the giant wall that is being built around Israel, and the kids were ecstatic to reunite. We wandered around the city, saw the majestic Baha'i Gardens, listened to live Opera, and ate some great street food. The food here is heaven, falafal, hummus, yummy fruit, and great chocolate! It was a great day.
I attended my first Shabbat service and dinner afterward. The service was a liberal hippy gathering with beautiful singing and spirit filled people. The dinner afterward was at an Orthodox house and was right after a wedding, so there was incredible food, prayer, singing, and dancing in a circle around the table. YES, that really happens, and its fabulous! I felt so honored to be included at the table, and everyone was so welcoming. I am learning so much and experiencing an entire culture and place I am so unfamiliar with. Tomorrow we will see the Dome of the rock and the Holacaust museum. HAPPY NEW Year! LOVEEEEEEE me.

Jerusalem

It has been a glorious 3 days in Israel and I am in a constant state of wonderment. The girls and I went to Bethlehem, which seemed only appropriate for the Christmas celebrations. It was a short bus ride from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, but we had to get off the bus and go through the check point to get into the city. The check point is in the middle of a giant wall that stretches the borders of Israel and is intended to keep Palestinians out. Only those who live within the walls or have proper identification can get through. It was sobering to see the division so concretely. The massive wall was covered with messages like, “free Palestine,” “We are not terrorists,” “Bring Peace to Israel..” ect. It was very powerful to realize how for granted I take the freedom of movement. I can’t imagine what it is like to be kept from somewhere because of my origin or religion. Our United States Passports allowed us to enter Bethlehem and we walked down the windy streets to Manger Square for the Christmas Eve celebrations. The square was bustling with people and there was a stage set up in front of the church the evening of the 24th. There were choirs and performances all night leading up to midnight mass. We opted not to try to fight the crowds and to attend a service in the morning. The President of Palestine was the special guest so there were a lot of people wanting to attend. We ate falafel and drank sweet tea while listening to the music. I quietly observed all that was going on around me. In the morning we went to the Church of the Nativity, saw the place that Jesus was born, and attended mass there in Arabic.
This was/is only the beginning. Today we visited the Wailing Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher (crucifixion/burial place of Jesus). The wall was lined with people praying and putting notes in the cracks of the white Jerusalem stone. People walked backwards from the wall so their backs weren’t turned to it. We were there as the light was radiating off the golden Dome of the Rock and Jerusalem shined.
Jerusalem is breathtaking. I had no idea how beautiful it would be. It is built on a series of hills that is a whirlwind of new and old. It is incredible to be in a city that is so significant to Islam, Judaism, and Christianity. There is so much intensity and stimulation packed into this little city. I haven’t felt unsafe at all, though I can sometimes feel tension in the air. It helps to be with Hannah and her wonderful friends here. I love the food; we have had falafel, pita, and hummus everyday, a vegetarians dream! Not to mention the delicious pastries. I could get use to this. For now, I’m just trying to keep my feet on the ground and not be totally swept away by this experience. Ahhh more soon….i hope Christmas was wonderful for you too! Love lisa

Holy Cow...I mean LAND!!

We made it to Israel!! I'm in Tel Aviv after nearly 24 hours of travel and a 6 hour stop in Ethiopia. It was crazy coming into the Israeli airport. After being up all night, totally starstruck, braids flying every which way with my array of mismatched attire and the fact that i'm usually a mess in life anyways i was therefore seen as an instant threat and politely interrogated several times. The airport officials here don't mess around...but i could bring my water and shampoo not to mention my tweezers...these guys are armatures, don't they know the havoc i could've caused with these dangerous items? The people of Israel are beautiful. Dark features and shining eyes. It is so strange to be in such a pronounced Jewish culture. Such a mesh of Orthodox, Reform, Zionists and so many more I can't grasp. It is surreal. I'm in Israel! Tomorrow we will be going to Jerusalem and then to Bethlehem for Christmas. A trip to the Dead Sea is in the plan as well. I am deliriously wide eyed and with wonder. This place is so rich with culture, history, tragedy and triumph. I just talked to a French woman very active in Doctors without Borders in a coffee shop...yes real COFFEE...brewed, not stirred....who just got back from Gaza and had incredible stories. She said one night they were in the clinic and there was an air raid and they heard firing and bombs all around them and they turned on the news and were watching the activity all around them from inside the building. So crazy. I'm learning from Hannah all about the rich history of this place and the Israeli/Palestinian conflict ahh its so interesting and heart breaking.

Anyways i'm pretty much in shock here. a few reflections. One: the glory of water fountains. I was thirsty and just simply bent over and got a drink...a COLD drink of sweet water. It's so good...once it hits your lips. Dogs...there are actual breeds here. Not just starving mutts twitching with fleas and worms. I loveeee the dogs, and on leashes as PETS...what? I'm not in Zambia any more toto. Things here are so accessible. I can buy gum...in several locations. The cars are small and fuel efficient and there is tarmac EVERYWHERE...endless tarmac...and little green walk guys and and and one kid per adult IF THAT. I do miss my iwes (village kids). ok i've only been here a few hours and listen to me. I can't express how i feel to be here...it's all just too much. I'll get some sleep and compose myself and send some more coherent reflections later

i love you alllllll

yay

NHC training

The road that leads into Mwamba

Some of my NHC members and me rethatching my roof

My kids and I in front of my hut

Dancing at a festival in the village

It's mushroom season

Holiday Cheer

Mwapoleni Mukwai…Greetings

It seems these last few months have flown by and it is hard to believe I am almost at the end of my 11th month in Zambia. Christmas has surely snuck up on me. Mwamba is void of the usual seasonal cues…Christmas music, lights, consumer craze, snow…it’s strange to think people are gathering with families in the states, wrapping presents and fighting snowy roads. Christmas in the village is much more rooted in the original purpose of celebrating the birth of Jesus without all of the clutter (which I, for the most part, enjoy). People go to church and usually slaughter some chickens and a goat, if lucky, feast, brew village beer and celebrate. The day before and after are typical work days, there’s really no rest during planting season.
It is officially rainy season and has been dumping at least once a day. The land has turned green and farmers are busy planting their fields. My thatched roof just got patched in time for the heavy precipitation and my leaks have been mended so I felt ok about leaving the place on holiday.
Speaking of…I’m not sure if everyone knew I am off to roam the Holy Land for Christmas. Yes, I’m going to Israel with two Peace Corps friends (Hannah & Lyndsey). Hannah lived in Jerusalem for a year and one of her best friends is getting married the 26th. I joked with her that I wanted to join her there and a few weeks later she extended the invitation. I really couldn’t fathom making the trip, especially on Peace Corps stipend, but I decided it was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up. Hannah is Jewish, knows the language and land and has many friends there, and Lyndsey is a spirited Lutheran who truly lives her faith…the perfect trio. I still can’t believe I’m going. We fly out the 22nd and have a 6 hour layover in Ethiopia where we hope to taxi to dinner if we can persuade the border officials to wave the entry fee. We arrive in Tel Aviv the 23rd, will be in Bethelehem on Christmas, then stay in Jeruselem till the 27th, head to the Dead Sea for a night and be back in Lusaka the 4th. I’m continually in awe of the incredible opportunities that fall into my lap…and ever grateful.
The last few months at sight have been really busy. Because I am so close to the boma (Kasama) My community is very active and involved in many different groups and projects and there are endless work opportunities. I’m working on a bunch of different projects including an OVC (orphan and vulnerable children) community preschool. I am hoping to fund construction and get it going with a Peace Corps Partnership Proposal which I am working on and will be completed in January. I will give you more information on how you can help out once it is approved and in motion. The community is really excited and I’ve had people at my door wanting to register kids already.
As far as my CAHP (health) work goes I just trained my 3rd Neighborhood Health Committee and it was great. I had the previous group come and facilitate some of the health sessions to give them practice in teaching health education and they did a wonderful job. It is so cool to see the students become the teacher. They were proud, empowered and beaming, and so was I for that matter. It was nice to see people really come out of their shell, especially the maayos, who tend to be more reserved in educational settings. One of my Nutrition Club members had a baby on her back while she gave her talk on Safe Motherhood and it was just precious. I really want to focus on giving the skills of sharing knowledge because these clubs and groups will have to be comfortable in that realm to encourage change.
My trainings are usually 4 hours for 5 straight days. They include club strengthening and health education and are exciting and exhausting. I give certificates at the end and usually require they help out with the following training. This past group, Ndoloka Village (6k from Mwamba) was so grateful for the training they sent me home with a bike load of parcels, including a giant mushroom, mealie meal (nshima flour), onions, tomatoes, bananas, cassava, cabbage ect. They are such a generous community and would give me the clothes on their backs. I am always in awe of Zambian hospitality. I’ve been here almost a year and I’m still treated with such grace. I love work, my hut, and my villagers. It helps to ease some of the holiday melancholy and longing for my friends and family at home.
I want to end with a reminder how much strength I gather from and am ever grateful for all of your love and support, especially during the holidays. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I wish all of you a cheery holiday season and I hope you revel in the love that surrounds you…. nalimutemwa –lisa